Top 5: Coffee stops to make this Sunday
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For Edmonton’s many artistic, architectural, transportation, and meteorological woes, coffee has emerged as an unlikely beacon of light in our so often dark and gloomy city. Although the term “boom and bust” typically refers to the fluctuating nature of the oil bizness, it also applies nicely to Edmonton’s other black gold. Right now, and in the words of Lt. Aldo Raine, “cousin, business is a boomin’.”
A couple of Sundays ago I set out to sample what Edmonton has to offer, visiting a handful of cafes to indulge in drinks that end with “o,” chat up staff, and experience the atmosphere of each joint. Here’s my thoughts on where to grab coffee this Sunday.
*Oh, and a disclaimer for the haters/ faux-coffee connoisseurs: I acknowledge there are more places you could visit on a Sunday. But you know what, one guy can only ingest so much caffeine in a 2 hour period. Plus, plenty of other great spots were closed. So deal with it.
5. BRU Coffee + Beerhouse (11965 Jasper Ave)
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Ah the process of gentrification at its finest. Embedded in the bottom floor of the newly risen Pearl Tower on Jasper Ave, this coffee/beer spot seems to meet the the necessary criteria for the young and wealthy’s Sunday cafe-outtings. On the surface, BRU presents itself well. Modern enough decor, high ceilings, and some beer bottles strewn on the counter, provide convincing evidence to those living above that this is a respectable facility, and not some broke yuppie’s caffeine den. But a shiny exterior can’t hide a less than exhilarating customer experience. A confused barista with the mechanical enthusiasm of a counter-top espresso maker, left more of a bitter taste in my mouth than my cup of Phil & Sebastian coffee — which was pretty good by the way.
Coffee: 6.5 (Espresso, Antigua Small Farms/ Guatemala)
Service: 4
Atmosphere: 4
4. Iconoclast (11807B 105 Avenue NW)
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For a while Iconoclast was my hidden gem. It’s main location (that’s right, there’s two now, with the second in the Le Marchand building) is next to a cemetery and has no sign on the front door. I liked its nonchalant, no frills-ness. But, as with anything, nothing perfect can last forever, and this space has become a staple for many coffee drinkers around the downtown/124 street area. With the development of the Oliver Brewery District in its backyard, traffic seems to be up and the “one hundred five” cafe has grown a bit to accommodate, offering a patio, and more seating into the back parts of the shop. Still, the coffee is excellent. Roasted in-house and cheaper by around a buck than much of the competition (I think?), you can’t go wrong with Iconoclast beans. While exclusivity seems to have gone out the window, I say heck, why not let all of Edmonton’s people drink good coffee.
Coffee: 7.5 (Espresso, iconoclast coffee roasters)
Service: 5
Atmosphere: 7.5
3. Farrow (8422 109 St NW)
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Speaking of exclusive, there was a time when Farrow was only a blip on the average Edmontonian’s food and beverage radar. Those days are long gone. Their bright blue door is virtually glued open now — hell, they’ve even got “regular” business hours (M-F 8a-7p; Sat/Sun 9a–7p). I kind of miss the days when I’d drive all the way there from the west side just to forget they closed early. Foodie-bloggy types adore them — well, so do we — and red-eyed, post-partying students can’t resist their parchment wrapped hangover creations (here’s lookin’ at you Grick). But Farrow was always packing a not-so-secret weapon — an exquisite selection of coffee beans. In large part thanks to Justin Benson (who has since moved on from Farrow), the tiny shop has become Garneau’s go-to for the morning pick-me-up you just can’t get anywhere else. It’s the only coffee shack you can walk into for a fresh pour-over and be greeted by blasting black metal, or the uncensored lyrical pampering of Pusha T. The fellas behind the counter may be as prickly as the beards they sport, but will hook you up with a cuppa joe that’ll definitely have you wanting some mo’. Fuck ya, that rhyme tho, high five Pusha!
Coffee: 8 (Cut coffee)
Service: 8
Atmosphere: 10
2. Elm Café (10140 117 St NW)
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Elm might be the smallest cafe on the list (at a NYC apartment-sized 200 square ft.), but they are a heavyweight in the local coffee scene. Similar to Bru, Elm is tucked into the bottom floor of a high rise, this time on the north side of Jasper Ave, kinda hidden around the corner from Famoso. I’ve always believed that a neighbourhood is utterly incomplete without a great cafe as part of its foundation — lucky for Oliver, they’ve got Elm. The brews are tasty and rarely done poorly. My americano (despite being the bowel crushing fourth espresso beverage of the morning) hit the spot as per usual. On a stool crammed into the corner I watched as everyone from grandmas, to junior high-ers, to guys and gals on coffee breaks from work, to Grant Mac students lined up out of the door for their sandwich and coffee. I appreciate the ability of a place to cater to a wide demographic, it’s damn heartwarming. Elm’s ability to accommodate comes down to the downright pleasantness of the baristas. Cheerful, happy to serve you your beverage, and more than willing to give their two cents on anything Kim, Kanye, or Yonce, Elm is a pint-sized home away from home. Jus saying, I’ll be looking at property in Oliver when my degree eventually starts paying off… hahaha funny thought.
Coffee: 8.5 (The Hathaway Espresso, Bows and Arrows)
Service: 10
Atmosphere: 9
1. Your own damn house (it’s your house, you know where it is)
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You wake up Sunday, still reeling from last night’s misadventures. You stumble into the kitchen, pull out your favourite coffee maker, and begin brewing a pot of hot, dark, and delicious goodness. In no time, your morning mug is filled to the brim, steaming, with a caramelly crema still on the surface. You take a sip and crash into your comfiest arm chair to check out the sports highlights (or whatever the hell you want, it’s your house after all). After a little while your cup is empty, but your bed is full once again, as you dive back in for another couple hours of rest and recuperation.
My Sunday choice is espresso brewed in a stove-top Moka Coffee Pot (pictured above). Easy, quick, and potent, this little device gives a small and strong cup of kick-in-the-pants that will start the day off right, any day of the week. Usually, I’ll add boiling water to produce a homemade americano but with a little steamed milk and a frother, a luxurious cappuccino is never out of the question. It’s the best bang for your buck, you’re in the company of your favourite person (yourself), and your bed is only a few steps away. That’s why this Sunday I say stay home, your kitchen is the only stop you need to make for coffee today.
Coffee: 10 (Crema e Gusto espresso, Lavazza)
Service: 10
Atmosphere: 10
!!!